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Drawing To A Made Hand?
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Drawing To A Made Hand?
by halevi76 » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:04 am
Ok, your dealt pocket sevens... (poisiton etc im not even considering this hand) you limp in, and so do 3 others, it's a 5 handed game. Ur playing $2-$2 blinds, home game, but the big bet is $10. That's my pretend scenario but you can put in anywhere.
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The flop is 9-7-8, you flopped a set. You bet, your opponent raises the maximum, you're sure he flopped a straight with either 10-J or 5-6, do you draw to the made hand? And would your decision change depending on this game, a mall/big limit game, a no limit game OR a no limit in pokertournament depending on your chip stack... (your opponent is Slightly loose- veryaggressive)
Regards
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The flop is 9-7-8, you flopped a set. You bet, your opponent raises the maximum, you're sure he flopped a straight with either 10-J or 5-6, do you draw to the made hand? And would your decision change depending on this game, a mall/big limit game, a no limit game OR a no limit in pokertournament depending on your chip stack... (your opponent is Slightly loose- veryaggressive)
Regards
Last edited by halevi76 on Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:47 am, edited 2 times in total.
- halevi76
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by jacedk » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:42 am
If you are absolutely confident that your opponent has a hand that beats you, your further decision is a pretty simple decision based on pot odds.
If you have a set and your opponent has a straight, you need to catch another 7, 8 or 9 to make a full house or quads. That's 7 outs (three 9's, three 8's and the remaining 7). This means that you need pot odds of 5.6:1 to call. So if it's $10 to call, do so if the pot is $56 or more.
However, in the example you give, you have to be aware that some of your outs may be counterfeit. This happens if your opponents holds 99 or 88. This way, even if you catch a full house, they will catch a bigger full hous or quads. Your only true out is the remaining 7. So you have to have even better odds than 5.6:1
If you are not 100% sure that the player will only make this bet with a made straight, your decision will definitly change depending on your opponent. If your opponent is the Slightly Loose Very Aggressive Player you describe, I would say it is worth it to reraise back into him, to find out where you are. He might be making the same max bet with two pair, an overpair, A9, a pair+straight draw and many other hands.
Putting your opponent on a hand is one of the most valueable skills a poker-player can have, and the only way to get information on what your opponent holds online is to use the bets - yours and his.
If you have a set and your opponent has a straight, you need to catch another 7, 8 or 9 to make a full house or quads. That's 7 outs (three 9's, three 8's and the remaining 7). This means that you need pot odds of 5.6:1 to call. So if it's $10 to call, do so if the pot is $56 or more.
However, in the example you give, you have to be aware that some of your outs may be counterfeit. This happens if your opponents holds 99 or 88. This way, even if you catch a full house, they will catch a bigger full hous or quads. Your only true out is the remaining 7. So you have to have even better odds than 5.6:1
If you are not 100% sure that the player will only make this bet with a made straight, your decision will definitly change depending on your opponent. If your opponent is the Slightly Loose Very Aggressive Player you describe, I would say it is worth it to reraise back into him, to find out where you are. He might be making the same max bet with two pair, an overpair, A9, a pair+straight draw and many other hands.
Putting your opponent on a hand is one of the most valueable skills a poker-player can have, and the only way to get information on what your opponent holds online is to use the bets - yours and his.
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by mattaca » Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:00 pm
Jace sums this one up pretty nicely I think.
I don't think I put my opponent on the made straight if I peg him as slightly loose, very agg. as I doubt he would come out betting the max. with the nuts or neuticles. Maybe if he was holding 5-6. In general though, he wants to keep you in, not force you out. So I reraise him as well to see where I stand.
I don't think I put my opponent on the made straight if I peg him as slightly loose, very agg. as I doubt he would come out betting the max. with the nuts or neuticles. Maybe if he was holding 5-6. In general though, he wants to keep you in, not force you out. So I reraise him as well to see where I stand.
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by cavman » Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:30 pm
if you assume that he definetly flopped the straight for this scenario, it all comes down to implied pot odds. If you hit your boat, and he will still put a lot of money in with his stright, i would draw to it. the game does matter, because its a lot easier to make a lot of money with a big hand in NL or PL than fixed limit. also, its obviously easier to get paid off with looser opponents in a loose game. but if you call on the flop and your opponent knows you must have a set, he's not going to pay you off if you hit your boat, and then the implied odds aren't there.
this analysis assumes a vacuum scenario of knowing your opponent has the straight. in an actual game, you need to consider what Jace and mattaca said also
this analysis assumes a vacuum scenario of knowing your opponent has the straight. in an actual game, you need to consider what Jace and mattaca said also
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